Nether Stowey still keeps to the quaint living of a small rural village. On my way to Alfoxden House in Holford, I met an elderly couple ambling on the path, shielded by an umbrella for two, in the pitter-patter that is so common to Somerset. They live in Glastonbury, only thirty minutes away, but return to the Quantocks often for its peace and lazy sheep-paced environment; and seeing the two of them, in no rush from one place to another, content in their mild-toned conversation, at breaks picking on natural details to let the mind rest and roam, I caught wind of what so attracted Poole, the Wordsworths, and Coleridge to the area so many years ago.

I can’t imagine the village has changed much since Coleridge settled at the end of Lime Street, in a tiny cottage, in proximity to Thomas Poole’s house. In fact, the two prominent fixtures which remain from the late-eighteenth century are Poole’s House and Coleridge’s Cottage, and a circuit through the town will bring you to the doormats of both in less than five minutes. In this place, more than any other, maps and itineraries are more cumbersome than helpful, for any local is more than willing to offer the brief directions to places of interest, and their conversation teem with local enthusiasm and hospitality. When I asked a gentleman for directions to Holford, he took me out of the rain into his Bistro and queried a young woman behind the counter to be sure I wasn’t sent astray. After spelling the details, she grabbed her coat and shuffled off to her red car at the end of the street, told me, “hop in,” and drove me the three miles to Holford, after one look at my attire and the weather outside. Anyone struck by shyness will quickly be broken by the Stowey smile. The bartender at the Ancient Mariner, across from the Coleridge Cottage, tendered an invitation to a dart competition if I was still in town for a few days.

If you are spending only a day in Nether Stowey, I wouldn’t visit the cottage or walk about the village for too long.  Instead, I recommend the hour and half trek to Holford, where the Alfoxden House still stands. The girl who drove me, with an inside track on local intrigue, let me in on the little-known fact that the House has ceased to be a hotel, due to lack of business, and has now passed into private ownership (she happens to be friends with the new owners).  This did not keep me from stealing a glimpse at the abode which made residence for the Wordsworths for a year (if you are so excited, and are chided for trespassing, I’d claim ignorance). If you head west from Stowey, over the combes, keeping the highway to your right, you are bound to hit the little town. There are several beaten public paths that wind their way over the hills and take you into Holford. The return is the same, save this time keep the highway to your left. Do not walk along the highway, even if it is the most direct route, for you lose the natural beauty of the hills and it makes for a dangerous walk given the serpentine route and streaming traffic. For the more ambitious, there is of course the famous Coleridge Way which starts in Nether Stowey and covers a hike through the Quantocks to Porlock 36 miles away. I was told by a local that at a good clip and with a very early start, the walk can be done in a day, but for those interested in leisure, should be done in two. The trail is marked by feathers, but for a complete guide, including accommodation, food, maps, and route details, BBC has made a wonderful detailed guide for the Coleridge enthusiast.

Copyright © 2007 Siddharth Bansal, Kenyon College, All Rights Reserved.