Despite being the largest village on the upper slopes of the moor, Princetown will strike visitors as simply a two-street town: the B3212 and the B3357 meet at the only major crossroads of town, no traffic light needed. Yet, the village's location so near the geographical center of Dartmoor ensures that it remains a perennial favorite stop for hikers and nature enthusiasts. As a consequence, those who manage to find themselves in Princetown will be well supplied of bunks and meals.

Thomas Tyrwhitt founded the village in tribute to the Prince of Wales, who traditionally oversees the lands of the Royal Forest. He constructed the Plume of Feathers in 1785, roughly a decade after the first transmoor highway passed through Tavistock, the sign still bears the Prince's heraldic symbol. Tyrwhitt's continued attempts to settle the area proved unsuccessful however, until he convinced a military planning commission to construct their Prisoner of War prison on a nearby plot of land, necessitating workers and thus settlement.

Nowadays the Plume of Feathers offers a pub and over-night accommodations to travelers. Much of the architecture remains from its eighteenth-century construction and the warm atmosphere of the pub can make up for a day of rain and wind. The accommodation options range from bed & breakfast rooms upstairs to an attached bunkhouse out back and even a camping ground in the warmer times of year. Not only does the Plume and Feathers sit at the center of town, but it functions as a center for human traffic in an otherwise sleepy little village.

Across a small side-street you will also find the Railway Inn, which offers a worthwhile Sunday roast, loads of comfortable seating, and an assortment of small and large rooms for public or private parties. Whereas the Plume of Feathers maintains the feel of a lively country pub, the Railway Inn appeals more to those of less restless disposition, locals seeking repose.

Also at the center of town you will find the High Moorland Visitor Centre, which features a variety of exhibits that comprises a veritable crash-course in the past and present of Dartmoor National Park. Down the street only a short distance sits St. Michael's Church (see the photograph above), the only church in all of Britain to be constructed entirely by Prisoners of War. The Church of England's Historic Buildings Trust completed much-needed repairs of the steeple and roof just within the past five years.

Along Tavistock Road are also the Prince of Wales Pub and the Old Police Station Café. The former of these boasted an on-site brewery until only recently when such operations transferred to a more modern facility on the outskirts of town. Consequently, Jail Ale and Dartmoor IPA may be imbibed at all of the local taverns and a few others scattered about South Devon. The Prince of Wales also offers bed & breakfast style accommodations, with reasonably-priced rooms from Single to Family. The Old Police Station, as the name suggests, occupies what used to be the village's police station, and now offers lighter fare for Princetown natives and blow-ins alike.

Only a cluster of trees beyond the Prince of Wales, the Duchy B&B, offering yet another in-town for option those planning an overnight stay in the area. Many hotels and B&Bs scatter the moor, but most cannot be reached by means of public transportation. Off-course accommodations also tend to offer their privacy at a steeper price. Prince Hall Hotel, visible from the Fox Tor Mire hike, offers overnight accommodations within a short ramble of the open moor, but costs a minimum of £80 per night in winter (£95 for May to October).

For those traveling by automobile, Princetown is surprisingly accessible. From Exeter, simply take the B3212 through Moretonhampstead and continue toward Yelverton. For a less direct route that instead utilizes major highways, follow the A30 west until just beyond Okehampton. Transfer to the A336 and head south into Tavistock. Turn onto the B3357 and head west from Tavistock; the route will fork right at Rundlestone and into Princetown.

From Plymouth, take the A336 north into Yelverton and transfer onto the B3212 northeast towards Princetown. The train stations that allow the easiest access to Princetown are those at Exeter and Plymouth.

From October to May, Stagecoach operates the Transmoor Bus Link (Route 82) between Exeter and Plymouth (via Moretonhampstead, Postbridge, Two Bridges, and Yelverton) on Saturdays and Sundays only. Daily operation picks up from June to September, accompanied by an additional Route X82, which connects Plymouth to Exeter via Buckfastleigh, Newton Abbot, and Dawlish, creating a complete circuit of South Devon. Another route (Route 98) runs between Tavistock and Yelverton year-round, but only on weekdays. For a timetable on your specific day of travel, check out Traveline.

Copyright ©2008 James M. Miller, Kenyon College.
All rights reserved.