Arthur Conan Doyle - Buckfastleigh

Buckfastleigh

Sign posts leading into Buckfastleigh invite you to enjoy your time in this “Ancient Woolen Town.” A hike past any nearby pasture confirms the continued presence of this trade, but one need not even go that far. At the center of the village sits Devonia Ltd., which has turned out woolen products for two centuries. The streets, the homes, churches, and pubs all seem to wrap about the plant in a tight crescent, cradling the village’s historic industry.

But a visit to Buckfastleigh does not mean that you will end up counting sheep. The village boasts a rather eclectic handful of attractions, much like a tourist trap that never became large enough to seem sinister. On the eastern end of town, the South Devon Railway runs several steam locomotives along a scenic route to Totnes and back, to the delight of sightseers and novelty-seekers. Beyond the old gauge tracks you will also find a Butterfly Garden and Otter Sanctuary, a very laid-back way to spend an hour or two. Otter feeding times occur three times daily, and if you make note of the time posted at the gate, you just might be around for the fun.

At certain times of year the cavern system running under the hillside will be made available for guided tours. These caves, which were discovered during the major push for Dartmoor quarrying, claim significance for their connections with both the geological and industrial history of the region. They link to the West Dart water system.

Beyond the town in nearby Buckfast, the striking facade of Buckfast Abbey looms over a courtyard of delicately manicured gardens. The abbey features an uncommon level of architectural complexity for a township so miniscule in size. Its church and grounds should allow the curious a relaxing couple of hours.

South Devon Railway
   Address: The Station, Dartbridge Road, Buckfastleigh, South Devon TQ11 0DZ
   Telephone: +44 (0)1364 642916
   Or visit the website.

Butterfly Garden and Otter Sanctuary
   Address: Buckfast Steam & Leisure Park, Buckfastleigh, Devon, TQ11 0DZ
   Telephone: +44 (0)1364 642916
   Or visit the website.

Within town you may find it odd that the street signs keep pointing towards The Valiant Soldier. No, there is not some hoary veteran on display in the town square, but an inn which the locals bill as "the pub where time stood still." The strange attraction of the building, now a museum, is that the owners simply closed shop one day nearly fifty years ago and never looked back. Empty glasses abound, an unfinished game of dominoes sits nearby while several darts stick indignantly out of the cork. Coincidentally, the Valiant Soldier also serves as the village's tourist information center, and the office keeps a list of overnight accommodations in the area.

Buckfastleigh provides the standard array of food options. Fore Street offers several small one-of-a-kind joints such as the Singing Kettle or the Baking Oven. Pubs include the White Hart, the Sun Inn, and the King's Arms, to name a few.

Unlike Princetown, Buckfastleigh does not have the compact core of historic buildings that function as both restaurants and bunkhouses; in most respects it is just a cozy little town. The Abbey Inn stands out for its lovely patio overlooking the West Dart River, but quite a handful of B&Bs cluster about the village.

The Valiant Soldier
   Address: 79 Fore Street, Buckfastleigh, Devon TQ11 0BS
   Telephone: +44 (0)1364 644522
   Or visit the website. Abbey Inn
   Address: 30 Buckfast Road, Buckfast, Devon, TQ11 0EA
   Telephone: +44 (0)1364 642343
   Or visit the website.

From Exeter, those traveling by automobile should take the A30 south for only a few miles before merging onto the A38. From Plymouth, transfer off of the A386, and head east along the A38. Buckfastleigh lies mostly west of the A38 highway, but the overpass throbs above the satellite residences. A bus runs between Exeter and Plymouth (Route X38) once an hour on weekdays, and a new Route 88/88C now connects Buckfastleigh to Totnes, where the nearest non-scenic railway station lies. Other nearby stations include Exeter and Newton Abbot. During the summer months, Buckfastleigh connects with the latter of these by way of Route X82. For a timetable on your expected days of travel, check out Traveline.