Thomas Hardy spent his childhood and early adult years residing in a cottage in Higher Bockhampton, Dorset on the edge of a heath. The following walk is a must for any Hardy enthusiast, as it illustrates how the landscape of his youth impacted his literary career. The tempestuous heath of Hardy's Return of the Native can only fully be appreciated firsthand! The walk should take about an hour to complete.
Your walk will begin at the gate of Thomas Hardy's Cottage in Higher Bockhampton--just four miles outside of the Dorchester City Center. If you happen to be visiting during the high season, you may wish to tour the cottage in which Hardy resided until the age of 34 and composed such works as Under the Greenwood Tree and Far from the Madding Crowd.
Directly outside the cottage is a granite column monument dedicated to Hardy which was "erected to his memory by a few American admirers." Take a couple of minutes to appreciate the fantastic view of the wild heath-land just beyond the monument. This is Puddletown Heath, widely recognized to be the inspiration for the Egdon Heath of Hardy's Return of the Native. Facing the monument, take a right and follow the wooded trial that runs parallel to the heath.
Less than a quarter of a mile down the road there will be a clearing on the left-hand side that opens up onto Puddletown Heath. If you are feeling particularly adventurous, carefully wander around the open heath; this will give you a better understanding of the rugged terrain that dominates Hardy's naturalistic novel. By going off-trail, you will be able to admire the diverse flora up-close and better recognize the truly desolated lifestyle of Hardy's Egdon characters. Be mindful of the plant-life and watch out for the infamous adder snake mentioned at the end of The Return of the Native!
Farther up the trail, you will see a signpost that will direct you to several other notable sites. From here you can take a right and venture a few miles up the road to Lower Bockhampton, where Thomas Hardy attened school as a youth. Straight ahead of the signpost leads to the Norris Mill as well as a Roman Road. To the right is Blackhill Heath, another inspiration for the setting of The Return of the Native. Taking a left towards Puddletown Forests will lead you on a picturesque walk around the whole of Puddletown Heath back towards Hardy's Cottage.
By exploring the surrounding environment of Thomas Hardy's childhood home, the literary enthusiast will better comprehend why landscape plays such a significant role in all of his major works; living on the margin of a ruggedly beautiful terrain shaped not only the settings of his novels, but alsothe fatalistic role nature plays in the lives of Hardy's protagonists.
Transporation information:
By train: Take train into Dorchester West (4 ml) or Dorchester South (4 ml). In the high season, you can take a bus from the Dorchester City Center. A taxi from the city center will take about 10 minutes and will cost around 8 pounds.
By car: 3 miles NE of Dorchester, 1/2 mile south of A35, free parking is avaiable up the road from Hardy's cottage
Ordnance Survey Reference: 194: SY728925
© Copyright Clare Keating & Katie Hickey 2007
